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Williston native cooking up success

By Kate Kliner, Staff Reporter
Published/Last Modified on Wednesday, March 5, 2008 10:27 AM CST


David Hinderer, 28, is one of the lucky few who has been able to carve out a career from doing what he loves. After working as a machine technician and troubleshooter, he decided to switch paths and attend culinary school.

"The decision to explore my passion came while attending my younger sister's college graduation in Grand Forks," Hinderer says. "I questioned myself as to what I really wanted to do for the rest of my life, and there was only one solid answer."

After touring the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute (PCI) with a friend, he says it was evident it was the place for him.

"Everyone can appreciate good food, and I don't know many people who don't watch the Food Network from time to time," he says. "This was my real calling, and having one of the top three culinary schools in the country nearby made it a little easier to make the transition."

He says he has been cooking for as long as he can remember, and has pictures of himself making pies with his mother soon after he could stand. When he was 15 or 16, his father introduced him to cooking with cast iron dutch ovens out of necessity, and he was able to travel around the country with him. "Making meals for his crew was a great way for us both to learn and experiment with what can actually be done with minimum resources and local supplies," he says. "Visiting different parts of the country during those years gave me a wider perspective about culture and food."

These days, his rigorous schedule begins around 5:30 a.m. After an hour and a half commute into downtown Pittsburgh, he arrives early for his classes at PCI to eat breakfast and listen to the local conservative talk radio show. First is a three hour kitchen class at 9:30 a.m., followed by a short break, and then two other related classes. These end around 3:30 p.m., and then Hinderer returns home to cook for the family he lives with. He prepares and presents a meal to them each night, and after that returns to his apartment to review recipes and homework for the next day.

On Saturdays, Hinderer spends his time as a saucier at a small restaurant and bar, where he mixes up the soup and specials for the week. He also composes a recipe column for a quarterly Westmoreland County newspaper called Curb. Hinderer says his creations are usually simple, comical explanations of a classic or original recipe for anyone to create in their own kitchen. In terms of what inspires him, he says that most new recipes he composes are derivations of classical cuisine modified with what is on hand.

"I love lamb, and a cherry smoke roasted leg of lamb is my favorite," Hinderer says.

A couple of years before attending PCI, he remembers inviting friends over for dinner and incorporating elaborate spreads, usually involving a leg of lamb. He says even those who announced they didn't like lamb ended up loving it, and that it was always a hit.

Hinderer says his experiences in the culinary field have brought him the most joy he has felt in years, and he draws the most satisfaction from pleasing others with his food.

"The reaction of diners' faces to a meal they can immerse themselves in is priceless," he says.

Hinderer is also very good at substituting ingredients in a pinch, and names a time when he didn't have the port wine on hand that a particular recipe called for.

"I was making a meal with Pork Noisettes Bayou LaFourche, which is a pork tenderloin dish with a mushroom and fig sauce. It calls for port wine for the classic version, and I substituted grape preserves for the port."

He says the dish was a hit, despite the last minute substitution.

After his soups, stocks, sauces and starches class was over last year he had a summer break, and became good friends with the chef instructor for this course.

"He was an inspiration to me and I was privileged to have studied under him before he retires this summer," said Hinderer.

He was also the only the second person to ace the instructor's sauce practical exam in 20 years.

"It was an epiphany in my life to share with him, upon return from break, what I had deduced about the nuances of classical brown stock," he says.

Hinderer says it was an honor to have his instructor's approval and curiosity about the results of his findings about brown stocks (a clear, flavorful liquid derived from browned beef bones and vegetables).

This spring, Hinderer will be working at the prestigious Nemacolin Woodlands resort, in Pennsylvania, where the grounds include a chic spa and salon as well as a golf academy and luxury lodging. He says he hopes the customers there will be as pleased with their meals as he will be to prepare it for them.
 

Comments

    Aunt Sally wrote on Mar 5, 2008 6:35 PM:

    " Way to go David. I just bought lamb to have for Easter. Yes, it is frozen. I would love to try your recipe for the cherry smoked lamb. Is there a way you can get this to me? We will raise a glass in a toast to your on-going success.
    Blessings for the Feast of Food and Success "

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